New Releases

We have a new release coming out this week.  Letters are in the mail.  If you don’t get one let us know.  We have three wines we’re releasing.

2012 Stefania Cabernet Sauvignon, Crimson Clover Vineyard, Santa Clara Valley

Release Price: $45 per bottle.
Total production: 108 cases

We harvested on 9/22 and sorted it in the field before transport to the winery. The grapes were 100% destemmed and crushed into 2 bins for fermentation on native yeast. The bins were moved inside the winery and punched down twice per day. We followed our normal pressing and settling routine and the wine aged in 2/3 new oak for 21 months.

The wine is typical Crimson Clover Vineyard with expressive black and plum fruit framed with spice and floral notes. There are notes of mocha and blackberry on the finish and round tannins. We expect this wine to age very well. Alcohol 13.7%

2012 Stefania Mourvedre, ‘Restitutor Orbis’, Spur Ranch, San Benito County

Release Price: $32 per bottle
Total production: 101 cases

Our second year of Mourvedre fruit from Spur Ranch. Paul had so much fun with the Latin quote on our first Mourvedre that he had to keep the tradition up. This one is about a 3rd century emperor. We had the chance to use whole berries in the fermentation process in 2012 and combined that with 40% new oak for a very round and flavorful Mourvedre.

The wine has everything someone who could defeat the Alamanni, Goths, Vandals, Juthungi, Sarmatians, and Carpi could want. There’s plenty of dark wild fruit to power you on to crush the Palmyrene Empire and Gallic Empire as well. Alcohol 14.4%

2013 Stefania Chardonnay, Chaine d’Or Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains

Release Price: $25 per bottle
Total production: 95 cases

We continued retraining to the Guyot method in the vineyard based on the experiments we had done in 2012.  The results were excellent and on 9/14 we harvested 143 bins or 4290 pounds and pressed the must whole cluster in one pressing. The must was transferred to a chilled tank for settling off the gross lees. Brix was 23 with pH 3.36 and TA .82. On 9/15 the wine was transferred off its gross lees into a chilled tank inside and inoculated with QA-23 yeast and yeast food. We maintained temperatures under 65 degrees during tank fermentation but did not super chill the must before transfer.

On 9/22 the wine was transferred to 7 barrels which were filled 2/3 full to finish fermentation. On 10/5 the wine was showing as completed primary fermentation and was reduced down to 5 full barrels + one keg. Lees were stirred at that time. The wine went through Malo with no issues and for the first time since 2008 we did not have to haul the barrels out into the sun in the Spring to finish fermentation.

The wine showed excellent chemistry and we decided to bottle with out fining or filtration. The wine will appear slightly cloudy in glass but is full of ripe fruit and wonderful crispness. Stefania loves this Chardonnay and it’s her favorite we’ve made. There is just 20% new oak and the stone fruit flavors really shine in this wine. Alcohol 13.7%

Anything that does not sell out in from the mailer we will add to the website in mid-April.

Settling In

No we haven’t totally dropped of the grid, so it’s time for a quick catch up.  We did get moved in to our new place in September and finished our move out of Chaine d’Or and in to our new place in Salinas in December.  All our production was at the new facility last harvest and we have a bunch of new wines and some old favorites we’re working on from 2014.  We’re very happy with the new facility and it was much easier on us with the additional help to handle set up and clean up.  The drive was also much shorter and easier and we put far less miles on the FJ this Fall.

We’ve been very busy of course with all the moving and settling in to our new home.  The building that will become the tasting room is all cleaned up and ready to go, we’re just waiting on the government now for permits.

I thought the best way to run through an update was with some pictures:

First the little kittens are growing like crazy and loving their new home.

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We got the bar set up in the new house right away:

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We’re still eating Primal:

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And we did go to New Orleans on our annual trip:

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Spending way too much time in the care of Fay at Coops:

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When we got home there were never ending chores and clean up to do.  We hauled away 8 truck loads of yard debris, cut down treees, repaired things and just general new home stuff like stacking a cord of wood:

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We had frequent  wildlife visitors with the turkey’s being the most common:

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And they like the backyard too:

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Stefania hasn’t shot anything yet but she’s ready just in case:

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We put a new cellar in and we’re trying to decide what to plant which means lots of research:

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Which means more Primal food lick smoked duck legs:

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With the New Year I’ve started a garden:

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And have more seedlings ready to go in:

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All this is enough to tucker out a kitty and keep us from writing regularly.  We may be on a monthly summary now, at least until we get the tasting room going.

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Picking Grapes, Picking Up Grapes and Finally Moving

We’ve been very busy since our last update.  There were significant delays in getting everything closed on our new home and we ended up in a hotel for 5 days.  We finally got the keys on Tuesday afternoon and are getting things set up there.  Stefania and I are really glad to put the process behind us and in getting our home together.

Grapes don’t stop and wait though and we had to carry on with harvest.  It’s been warm and sunny this September and the vineyards are pushing ahead early like last year.  Last Saturday we harvested the Crimson Clover Vineyard’s Cabernet Sauvignon.  I had my regular job of hauling out bins and Stefania sorted everything as I dumped it into the 1/2 ton bins.

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We used a small crew of our regulars and a couple of family members, my Mom and cousin Matt.  We had everything picked and were mobile to the winery by 11 AM.

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Earlier in the week I had picked up 3000 pounds of Malbec.  We’ll use some for blending but also likely have a Malbec release in the future.  3000 pounds is my preferred amount to buy.  It produces about 4 barrels or 100 cases.  It also is the max payload for the U-haul trailers I rent.  The FJ Cruiser can actually tow much more but I’d need a trailer rated for more weight.  We thought of buying one in the past but we had no where to store it.  Now we will have space to store it so a purchase before next year is likely.

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The first picture I took from the new house.  Wild Turkeys that come visit every day.  They come right up to the front and back doors.  Can’t wait to see the first time that happens with the cats looking out the door.

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Yep We’re Still Here.

We definitely go through writing phases and neither one of us has been in one so far this year. We’ve been busy though with a few trips including a great 10 day adventure of hiking in Southern Utah. We’ve been keeping up on the vineyards and all the 2012 and 2013 wine in order. We had a good spring release which we never even put up here. The order page is updated though with current inventory.

If there’s something you’d like though that’s not on the inventory page send us an email. I have about a dozen different wine right now that are showing 1-3 cases in stock. Not enough to put on the web page but we could check for you if there’s something you really like.

We’re heading to Crimson Clover tomorrow to tuck the wines there. The weather so far in 2014 has been great. We thought the drought would effect yields but so far it looks like we’re on track to have about the same amount of fruit as a typical year like 2012. We’ll have a Summer Futures offer out soon and then a fall release around Sept 15th. It will be our first wave of wines from 2012.

We are also doing a new diet and fitness plan, with lots of hiking and we’re averaging 12-18 miles a week. I’ll see if the writing bug picks up again this summer. We’re expecting a little easier harvest this year than last so maybe I’ll even get some writing in at harvest.

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A Couple More Crimson Clover Pruning Pictures

The sun did not last long enough in the vineyard but it was a warm day and we were actually glad for the shade in the late afternoon.  In the summer time we won’t get this shade in the vineyard.  With the sun higher in the sky the vineyard stays sunny until just before sunset.  By late afternoon it was just Jerry, Millie Stef and I doing the work.  We were all slowing down some and even Jerry took a break.

As I said in the last blog you put on a lot of miles carrying out the cuttings from the vineyard.  The picture below was of the pile at about 4 PM with 3 rows still to go.  At this point it’s about 5 feet tall and 15 feet in diameter.  The cuttings have to be carried out in small bundles.  If you try to pick up too much they become hard to control and you drop them along the way.  We’ve tried tying them up, using a wheelbarrow and lots of other tricks, but in the end just making small piles as you prune seems to work best for everyone.  Millie likes to put her’s on a blue tarp and drag them along as she goes.  She then drags the entire tarp out of the row to dump.  It saves bending over, but is hard on the arms to pull along.

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The extra hours on Saturday tough were worth it to take Sunday off.  We were able to hang out in the back yard and enjoy a cigar and an Old Fashioned.  Our hands were sore for a few days and legs and backs also, but the Old Fashioned helped.

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Crimson Clover Pruning

First pruning of 2014 was at our Crimson Clover Vineyard.  We didn’t head out too early.  There’s no sense in trying to prune when it’s dark, but it was cold that morning.  The temperature actually dropped to 34 when we arrived at the vineyard.  There would be six of us pruning; Jerry, Millie, Stef, my cousin Susan and her husband Andre and me.  Susan and Andre wanted to learn what it was like so we had coordinated with them to come and do a couple rows with us.

There was frost on the ground when we arrived but as soon as we got moving everyone warmed up.  The sun game out over the vineyard by 9 AM and we were all warm pretty fast.  Most years we count on pruning this site as a two day job.  The hardest part is what I call ‘pick up sticks’.  That’s picking up the cuttings and carrying them out of the vineyard.  It’s bending over 100’s of times and grabbing the small sticks, then carrying the cuttings to a burn pile outside the vineyard.  This year I put an App on my phone to chart how much ground I’d cover in the day.  It actually drained one battery and I had to switch to my work phone to finish.  The grand total was just over 9 miles walked for the day, all in a one acre space.
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Below is the happy crew at work.  Happy because it was still early and the sun was out.  You’ll notice that everyone is on their own row.  We learned this pretty early.  Pulling the cuttings out of the wire can me dangerous for any bystanders.  They can come out like a little whip and draw blood if they hit skin.  At very least it stings.  You’ll see no one is working the same row and no one is right across from anyone else.  I’m the worst person to work near by unanimous vote, because I’m the strongest I’ll pull things out of the wire that everyone else would cut out.  No one wants to be close by when I’m pulling on a really stuck cutting.

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There where a lot of cuts to make at Crimson Clover this year because we were reestablishing spurs on many plants and that meant instead of the usual 16-25 cuts per plant we were doing 30+ on every plant.  Everyone had sore hands the next day.  3 PM is usually our stopping time for vineyard days but when 3 PM came we were down to the last 6 rows and we all decided we’d rather work another couple hours rather than come back the next day for 2 hours work.  I have a few other pictures on the second phone I’ll get up soon.

Soil

In blogs and release letters I’ve often talked about the red volcanic soil that we have in a few of our vineyards.  It really does not happen in the Santa Cruz Mountains very often.  On the west side of the mountains the soils are mainly sandy and sandstone based, that’s part of why I think the wines there can be light in color.  On the east side of the mountains the soils are clay and fractured limestone.  Every now and then though there’s a rare streak of red volcanic soil.

This is actually much more common in the band of foothills to the east of the Santa Cruz Mountains proper.  In the southern part of the range those foothills are called the Santa Teresa Foothills and our Crimson Clover vineyard is in that chain.  There’s some of that red volcanic soil at Crimson Clover and I’ve always thought that was a key to the high quality of the site.

Our Pinot Noir vineyard is on a knoll of red volcanic soil in the northern part of the foothill chain.  So far the wine from that site have been unusually dark and tannic for Pinot Noir.  I think that’s the soil in play.  I love this soil and wish we could find more sites with it.

Just before Christmas Stefania and I went on a seven mile hike in Santa Teresa Park, which surrounds the highest peek in the foothills.  That peak is called Coyote peak and is just over 1100 feet.  Our hike took us from the base of the hills at 90 feet to the peak.  Along the way there’s an old horse ranch and I took this photo of an old barn.

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On the way back down we took the trail below and I thought this was a great shot of just how rare and elusive the red soil of the Santa Teresa Hills is.  In the foreground the trail is dark brown.  This is a heavy clay soil we have in the valley floor below.  It turns black when it’s wet and holds a lot of water.  Our Mourvedre in the yard at home loves this soil but Syrah has never really done well in it.

Half way down the trail though you see the color of the trail change.  That’s not the lighting, that’s a band of red volcanic soil.  You can even see the little raise in the hill where the lava once flowed.  The band lasted for about 70 yards on the trail and then was back to black clay.  The photo will enlarge if you want a bigger view of it.  Next time we’re in the park I’ll take a close up of the transition.  It’s pretty dramatic.

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Crimson Clover Harvest Pictures

By now this is a really familiar picture. Start of the morning in the FJ Cruiser.  I was up at 5:45.  Crimson is not far from our home compared to some other sites so leaving at 6:37 we were actually the first ones on site at just after 7AM.  Millie had come the day before and removed all the chopsticks from the netting so the first task would be to remove the nets.  Normally we’d have Jerry and Gil remove the nets and everyone else would start picking.  The weather was drippy and wet though with mist coming down and clouds all around the vineyard.  I kept checking the hourly weather update (which showed clear from 8 Am until Noon) and watching the clouds.  Everyone pitched in to take the nets off.

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There was a little moister on the leafs but the clusters where staying dry.  They really looked fantastic.  We don’t generally leaf pull.  I prefer to get dappled sunlight on to the grapes rather than direct sun.

crimsongrapes

 

 

About 8:45 we got the clearing that we needed in the clouds and I sent the crew out to start picking as fast as they could.  Clouds hung around the vineyard all morning but as volunteers arrived on site they all said it was clear to the north of us, the direction any rain would come in from.

 

cloudystart

 

The first bin of grapes.  I picked about six bins total.  Once the bins started to fill up though my job changes to picking up the bins and carrying them to the macro bins for sorting.  Stefania calculated that I walked 12 miles in the vineyard, half of that carrying 30 pounds on my shoulder.  In all I carried out over 100 bins on Saturday and over 60 on Sunday.

 

firstbin

 

This is Stef’s usual job on picking days.  She’s keeping a tally of the bins as they come in and sorting through the grapes removing any bees, spiders, lady bugs, earwigs, leafs, shoots, grass, water bottles or finger tips that come in.  We had a good pick this time with no injuries or bee stings.

 

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I thought we might pick heavy this year.  Last year we brought in just under three full bins or about 2700 pounds.  That’s 1 1/2 tons per acre and pretty normal for this site.  I thought we would get 4 bins this year.  That’s a little bit of a logistical challenge because the biggest trailer I can rent only hold three bins, and I wouldn’t want to tow much more than the 4000 pounds a fully loaded rig weighs up and down the mountain roads we have to travel.  I figured we’d just come back Sunday though and finish up.  The third bin though filled up on row 12 of 23.  Rows 18-23 are shorter than the rest so we actually came back for 2+ bins on Sunday or just over 5000 pounds.

 

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There was some drama driving back to the winery.  The forecast held and at Noon it started raining again.  We had covered the bins though and were already on the road when the rain started.  When we arrived at the winery we had to weight about 30 minutes for the misting to stop.  We then got everything processed and inside in just about 25 minutes, which was perfect because 5 minutes after we finished processing it rained as hard as I’ve ever seen at the winery.

 

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We ended up with three full fermentation bins of must.  That’s a thermometer sticking in the must getting a temperature.  Brix was 14 and pH 3.80.  Reallly perfect for this vineyard.

 

must

 

We were out of the winery in time to get home and take a shower and visit our friend Ingrid’s house for authentic Chinese food.  The ‘pearl’ sausage balls were fantastic and there was a pot of ‘blood and guts’ that I really enjoy.  We probably drank too much and ate too much and stayed to late given we had to get up Sunday at 5:45 again but it was fun.

 

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Sunday we returned and picked the rest of the vineyard as well as the Cabernet from the Roxy vineyard a block down the road from Crimson Clover.  For the first time there looks like enough grapes from Roxy (about 800 pounds so far) to do a barrel on its own.  Usually it goes into the Haut Tubee blend.  Sunday was one of those really tough days.  At 1 PM I had to stop picking and hauling grapes and just sit in the car for about 30 minutes to recover.  When we made it to the winery at 4PM with the grapes Millie was not there yet.  We’d sent her to pick up some sandwiches so knew we had about 30 minutes before we had to process the grapes.  I took my boots off and put them under my head on the cellar floor and fell asleep.

We ended up staying until just about 8PM.  The Chardonnay was ready to go into barrel so while Millie and crew cleaned up outside, Stef and I got the barrels ready and all the wine transferred inside.  Sunday’s dinner was traditional harvest food – beer and pizza.

More Vineyard Visits

I wrote about the visit and testing at Chaine d’Or we did on Saturday.  We also visited a small Syrah vineyard in Los Altos Hills that the owners now maintain all on their own and visited a potential new site in the Gilroy-Watsonville Road area.  For those out side of the South Bay, Gilroy and Watsonville are two small towns south of San Jose.  The irony of the Gilroy-Watsonville Road is it goes to neither Gilroy or Watsonville.  We finished up the day at the Crimson Clover vineyard which is in the town of Morgan Hill behind the big hill everyone things is named Morgan Hill but is really named El Toro.  Whoever named things in that part of the valley was definitely trying to confuse people.

Sunday we watched the Saints game in the morning.  They seem to have their defense figured out this year which was encouraging.  Then we headed to the Mineral Hill vineyard to watch the 49er game with the vineyard owners there and check on the grapes.  This will be a hard one to figure out when to pick because the vines are just three years old and a vineyard that young tends to have a great deal of variation from plant to plant.  Stefania says it’s really year 7 when the vineyard starts acting like a vineyard, and stops acting like a collection of individual plants.

 
mineral hill 2013

The grapes planted here are Mourvedre and the yield looks to be pretty high.  I’m sure some of the clusters won’t make it and will dry up and some will not be ripe and have to get cut off so probably 75% of what is on the vine now will make it into a fermentation bin.  The vineyard is over an ancient creek bed and water still flow under ground so the plants are particularly strong for being three years old.  I’m thinking we will pick here right around the 1st of October.

 
mineral hill close

One last picture from Crimson Clover on Saturday.  The vineyard tested at 22.25 Brix.  Flavors are well past the green state and in between red and black fruit.  We set the pick date as September 21st, which is in the normal to early range for the site.  With the weather pattern we expect to pick right around 24 Brix.  Yield here looks average for the site and I think we’ll get just under two tons.  We will also pick the ‘Roxy’ Vineyard at the same time.  Roxy is a mix of Syrah, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon that we put in the Haut Tubee Blend.  Yield there looks high this year, close to a 1000 pounds.  That would be cool actually if we got that much as we could keep the vineyard on it’s own through fermentation and into barrel.

 
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Samples and Rouge Pinot Noir

Saturday Stefania and I logged 112 miles on the FJ Cruiser checking on vineyards and getting samples to do lab testing on.  We started at Chaine d Or testing Chardonnay.  We tasted the Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the vineyard as we went but it’s really too early to do lab tests on those grapes yet.

We walk each row of the vineyard and pull berries from each plant, going back and forth to get each side of the row and each exposure.  We also try and mix up the berries from the middle, bottom, and top of the cluster as well as pull from clusters in full sun and those on the interior of the plant.  The idea is to get a sample that shows the entire vineyard not just those berries that are in sight.  Stef is holding a white bucket that we use to gather the berries as we go.

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At Chaine d Or it takes one person about an hour to get samples.  Two people takes 30 minutes so we split up.  It’s also important to taste as you go.  That’s a good way to train your taste to recognize what the grapes are at in terms of lab readings.  You sample 20-30 grapes in the vineyard, then go back and test and it’s instant feedback and learning.  In this case the Brix was under 21 and the pH was 3.25 so now we both have an excellent idea of what the maturity level tastes like.

We’re also checking on secondary indicators of ripeness like brown seeds and brown stems on the clusters.  Since each plant is getting a quick look we can also check for any issues.  On Labor day weekend when I went out I noticed small amounts of Botrytis or Grey Mold in the vineyard.  Under the wrong conditions this can be a disaster unless you spray right away.  With the weather we’ve had though I though we would be ok.  It’s been very hot and I know temperatures over 90 degrees will keep the mold from spreading and just shrivel the berries that have been effected making them very sweet and introducing the unique Botrytis flavor profile.

The walk through the vineyard confirmed that the mold was all dead and we’ll have about 60 clusters of Botrytis Chardonnay grapes in the wine, which is normal for the vineyard.

One final oddity that Stefania wanted me to take a picture of is a rouge Pinot Noir plant we have in the Chardonnay.  It was probably a mix up at the nursery when then vineyard was originally planted.  It was actually 4 years before we noticed the plant.  The leafs are very similar between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and the cluster shapes and sizes are also very close.
pinot chard

We kept missing this plant because the Pinot turns red earlier than the Cabernet Sauvignon.  We usually don’t net the vineyard until the Cabernet turns color, so the birds were cleaning out this plant every year before we netted and could see the grapes were red and not white.  I remember seeing the plant and thinking it odd that the birds would completely clean out one plant and not touch the others around it.  That’s not super unusual, it’s how birds attack a plant.  They eat one cluster completely before moving to the next and tend to clean out the plants one at a time.  Stills it would be odd that they had not eaten any clusters off the neighboring plants.

When we discovered this plant last year it was mostly eaten but there were a few clusters left that helped us identify it.  We made an effort this year to get it netted early and will use the grapes in our Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot.  Chaine d’Or also has a rouge Zinfandel plant in the Chardonnay and a group of plants we are pretty sure are Pinot Gris in the Merlot section.  The birds love Pinot Gris and most of those get eaten early every year.

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