Author: Paul

I know we still have one more day to go but we’ve already had a great Labor Day Weekend. For many winemakers around the state it’s the start of their harvest, but we still have many weeks ahead before we start. It’s a great weekend to spend with friends.

Saturday we had a long 3+ hour lunch at a Brazilian steak house in San Mateo. We had two 750 ml bottles and a magnum with lunch. Everyone started in the bar though with a cocktail. There was a strict limit of one Pisco Sour per person. Two creates dementia 🙂

We were celebrating a baby shower for our friends and with this group BBQ meat and wine is the best type of baby shower. Below beef ribs come out to the table. After lunch many of us went into a ‘meat coma’. The talk the next day was if anyone actually ate again the rest of the day ( 1 1/2 out of 11 of us did!)

Sunday it was time to regather and get the smoker going. I smoked a salmon for Stefania and then when the smoker had cooled to about 180 I put these ribs on. Our friend Gerard had done steaks like that for us on our trip to Nashville. I left the steaks on for just about 70 minutes. They don’t really cook at all, they just pick up the spice of the smoke.

Then I transfer them to a hot grill and finish them off there.

I did fall asleep on the coach but we had another great night of food and wine with friends.

One more event tonight with smoked ribs, brats and more wine!

I’m not so much concerned with what happens in the vineyard or in the winery in this blog. What I mean is what does it mean when you here someone say a vintage is great? What does it mean when the wine critics call a vintage great?

On almost every front the 2007 vintage in California has been called a great vintage. I think that’s right, especially in the context of what people usually mean when they say that.

2007 was an easy year. That made it a great year. The weather, the seasons, everything you need to go right in a year went right. That meant it wasn’t particularly hard to bring in great grapes and because the grapes were so good it wasn’t hard to make good wine. The praise that often gets used is, “A rising tide raises all boats”.

That’s exactly what a great vintage does. Everyone succeeds and everyone makes wine above their normal level. It means the great sites and winemakers will make exceptional wine. It also means wines and sites that may usually be average will perform much better. For a consumer it means you can go out and buy just about anything from that year and it will be good.

Those type of years are really a boom for most wine drinkers because every choice they make will be a good one. For serious collectors it can actually be a bit of a draw back. That rising tide also means rising demand and that can mean rising prices. That happens in Bordeaux every time they have a good vintage and often people who would like to buy the wine get priced out of the market.

2008 was a totally different year. It was hard from start to finish. There were issues with almost everything you could image (except mildew) and extra work was required all year long in the vineyard and then again in the winery. On top of that yields were painfully low, often off up to 75% from 2007 at some sites.

So that makes it a bad vintage right?

I actually think 2008 is a better vintage than 2007. But there’s a huge qualifier on that. It’s not a vintage where all boats rose equally. It was the exact opposite in fact. Those growers and wineries that did the extra work, took the extra care and had the extra focus made fantastic wines. I’ve heard from many, many winemakers that they think the 2008 wines are the best or some of the best wines they have ever made.

If a winery couldn’t, wouldn’t or didn’t understand how to deal with the year, they struggled to make decent wines. A lot of people picked way too early and made lean tannic wines. Some didn’t modify their winemaking enough to deal with the small berries and high solid to liquid ratios at crush and made hard over extracted wines. Many struggled with the low yields and had difficulty handling the smaller lots from individual vineyards. You’ll see a lot of wine in 2008 that is going to be AVA labeled instead of vineyard labeled because producers didn’t have a plan to deal with the very small quantities they were forced to deal with and had to blend together lots.

Because of those yield issues there was very little quality juice available on the secondary market. Don’t expect to see great second label wines in 2008 or great wines from those wineries that buy in juice rather than process grapes. It’s going to be a bad year for the bulk blenders as well. 2008 will not be a year you can go to the supermarket and pick out any bottle.

That’s why 2008 is never going to be called ‘great’ by the press or critics. It wasn’t great for everyone. I think all the vintage charts you will ever see will rank it below 2007 and 2009. For the fine producers though that’s just not true. I think every wine we made in 2008 was better than the same wine we made in 2007. If you think I’m just hyping the vintage I have to sell, I’ll tell you I have almost as much 2007 left as I have 2008 still to sell. I also have much more 2009 in barrel still but I think 2008 is better than 2009.

I’ve heard that same thing from other quality producers I’ve talked to and in other wines I’ve tried. My advice is to skip the closeouts, bargains and blenders in 2008 and concentrate on those producers you know make great wine. Their wine is going to be very special.

Next week Stefania and I will hit the road to preview our 2008 wines for friends and customers on the East Coast. We have four events planned starting Thursday the 9th and wrapping up on Monday the 13th.

Thursday the 9th from 5-7 PM we will be pouring 6 different wines at a private location in Georgetown, DC. I’m planning on opening our 2007 Santa Cruz Mountains and Uvas Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons, 2007 Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah, 2008 Pinot Noir, 2008 Syrah Eaglepoint Ranch and 2008 Haut Tubee.

Thursday at 8PM we will be attending an off line wine dinner with members from the Wine Spectator on-line forum just north of DC at Dino’s. The restaurant is located right on the Red Line of the DC Metro.

Saturday evening the 11th we will be at a private party in New Jersey about 30 minutes from Philadelphia. We will be bringing along a selection of 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 wines.

Monday the 13th we will be at another off line dinner of Wine Spectator forum members in downtown Manhattan near Wall Street. We’ll be bringing our 2008 wines to that event for people to try.

If you would like to attend any one of these events please contact me directly via email for directions and a formal invite. We’re hoping to get to meet as many of our mailing list members as we can on this trip. Each event is very informal and we hope we’ll get the chance to talk with everyone interested in our wines.

Back in July I wrote about updating our business plan. Well I did finish the update and we have just a few financial reports to add once they’ve been checked off by our CPA. It looks like it will close out at just about 60 pages.

One thing we knew we needed to do was sit down together with all the shareholders (that’s me and Stefania) and review the plan. We wanted to make sure we were in agreement on everything in the plan and that most important we both understood where we’re going and what we’re going to do in the years ahead.

I suppose we could have just set aside some time on a Sunday afternoon and sat down in the backyard. Everyone knows though how easy it is to get distracted with chores and tasks around the house so we planned on a get away. We couldn’t go too far and really just had a couple days to spare so we spent Sunday and Monday in Monterey.

I’ve always really enjoyed Monterey and it was nice to spend a couple great days there. The weather was cool but sunny. We did spend Sunday afternoon on the balcony of our hotel room going over the business plan page by page. We even managed to do that without a glass of wine or a cocktail. At least until after we were done.

There was enough time left though to take a few long walks. We also ate on the wharf a couple of times and had a great time at the Cannery Row Brewing Company.

We don’t really treat ourselves to very many perks as business owners. In the past 5 years the fanciest thing I think we’ve bought as a business expense is a new computer for me. My old one was a circa 1999 Mac, so it was clearly time for a new one. We decided this retreat was a good idea though and we’re likely to make the business plan review an annual get away event.

What a sucky Summer. I shouldn’t complain about the weather, but I am. It’s 8:30 on Friday night, August 27th and it feels like mid Fall. The cold breeze from the fog rolling makes it too cold to be hanging out in shorts on the back patio. Feels like it’s 65 degrees, or cooler right now, and I’m bundled up on the couch watching the Giants game.

The problem with the cooler than normal temps goes beyond my crankies. It’s affecting the vines and the grapes. And that makes me even crankier.

The vines at home are doing “ok”, but we have leaves starting to turn already…on my way home from the winery today, a young vineyard down the hill from us already has yellowing leaves in the fruit zone. It’s too soon!

Three days before bottling, Paul and I were at Chaine d’Or, it was 1:01pm, 68 degrees outside, and the fog was lingering over the hills on the next ridge over from the vineyard. Argh! It’s been wet, damp, cool, foggy, and bleak.

Yesterday, an old Italian neighbor dude knocked on my door asking if Paul was home. In his grocery store bag he pulled out a cluster of white grapes from his backyard that had grey rot on it. I sighed. He said he’s never had his grapes look this bad in all the years he’s been tending them.

The best I could tell him was to cut out the damaged sections and we’d come by this weekend to take a look (and bring our Stylet Oil though I think it’s too late for another spray application).

The Church vineyard around the corner is doing pretty ok. I need to drop about 6 clusters of mildew damaged fruit, but it looks like we’ll have ~200 pounds of grapes to add to the Haut Tubee blend.

Usually at this time of year we’d be busy with a lot of blogs going up. We had a bottling run last Sunday, bird netting is going on in the vineyards, we have a trip with some public events coming up, and a release going out.

Two Saturdays ago we lost a family member after a short and very serious illness. Stefania and I have been grateful for all the support we’ve gotten. It’s reaffirmed our belief that making wine and making friends is the right path for us to be on. That has kept us away from blog updates as we’ve focused on family and taking care of the day to day business.

We still did need to complete a bottling run on Sunday. We bottled our 2008 Cabernet Sauvignons. I feel that these are the best wines we’ve ever made. Each one was unique and excellent. I’m sure we’ll have more on them in the months ahead.

We worked with a larger than normal volunteer crew as our friends; Kathy, Millie, Noelle, Holly, Amber and Rachel helped out. (Yep all girl volunteer crew!). Our regular helper Jerry was there as well and Stefania and I. Below we’re getting ready to start. Millie is on the left, Matt from the bottling company is prepping the truck and Jerry is waiting to get started.

Stefania has become the master of bottling logistics. Just 11 extra cases!

I was much better with the forklift and got everything loaded up pretty easy.

We’ll be back with more updates and thank you again to everyone who has given their support over the past few weeks.

Stefania and I were able to squeeze in a visit to the Crimson Clover vineyard recently. All of our vineyards are at least 2-3 weeks behind their regular schedule including this one. Last year we had this vineyard netted by August 1st. This year netting took place on the 14th and the vineyard hasn’t completed veraison yet.

Harvest in 2008 was on September 28th and in 2009 in was on September 26th. This year my estimate is that harvest will be sometime after October 20th. This is an early site for us, usually a full month before our other Cabernet vineyard sources are ready. That’s not promising for those sites. If the schedule stays consistent to past years that would put us into late November for picking.

That would just be too late. The plants will have shut down by then and the winter rains started. We’re making alternative plans now to make a Rose out of any fruit that won’t make it to pull red ripeness.

The Crimson Clover vineyard should make it fine though. It’s in a warmer micro climate and a late October picking date is pretty safe for us. In the picture below you can see the vineyard is in good shape and healthy.

We’ve started to see some unusual bird activity lately. There have been a few emaciated dead birds in the vineyards. We’ve also seen birds eating unripe green grapes. Sunday I saw a mother mocking bird feeding a youngster who was screeching in distress. I think the late season is taking a toll on the birds. Their regular food supplies are not getting ripe when they should and it looks like some birds are starving.

I have not seen that story hit the news yet so just count that as an observation and a guess. It could cause us problems later if the birds get more aggressive in attacking the netting. It could also mean we get migratory birds stopping in the vineyard that would normally just pass by.

We will be pouring again to support the Alzheimer’s Association for Northern California & Nevada.

http://www.sipsavorsupport.com/Home_Page.html

The date is Saturday September 18th from 11:30- 3PM. Tickets are $50 and last year the event raise more than $21,000 for the Alzheimer’s Association for Northern California & Nevada.

I suspect we will be pouring our 2009 Chardonnay as a preview of its release in the Spring and one red wine. This is a charity we are very happy to support and hope we see you there.

By the time we had bottled the 2007 in the spring of 2009 we knew we needed to plan for a Haut Tubee release in a much more formal way than we had in the past. 2007 had worked out well but we knew that a good part of the production was from the higher yields that year and a good part of the rest was from barrel experiments that we knew we would not do every year.

Our experience though with the blending the 2007 wine, which we had largely done in the summer of 2008, helped a plan come together. With the Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah we had picked two barrels of wine that we though were least like the other seven and eliminated them from the final blend. I felt that really made the final Syrah much stronger.

We had also done a similar thing with the 2007 Chaine d’Or Cabernet Sauvignon. In the summer of 2008 we pulled samples from all eight barrels we had. We went through the same process as we had done with the Syrah. We selected the barrels that were least like the others. It’s important to note, we’re not looking for the ‘least’ barrels, or the ‘worst’ barrels, we’re looking for the barrels that are most different from the others.

We then rank them, in this case from one to eight. Next we start blending trials. It might be the one we ranked least typical adds something really unique or good when combined with other barrels. As we do this the samples start to stand out. Certain barrels bring less to the final blend than others. They may be really good barrels, and usually are, but they don’t contribute as much to the final blend as others.

On that 2007 wine we selected two barrels that we then divided up between the Haut Tubee and the Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon. We did that division also based on what would bring the most to each finished wine.

In the end we thought the process made every wine better. For the single vineyard wines it really let us focus on bringing out what is unique in each vineyard. For the Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon it let us bring together a wine with everything complete. Finally for the Haut Tubee it let us create a really great hand made wine and price it low enough that it’s a great bargain.

That last part turned out to be good for our customers in a number of ways. For new customers who hadn’t tried our wines it gave them a wine they could evaluate without putting out a lot of cash. With 3 bottles at $60 the price to try the wine was 1/3 of what a single new bottle of Napa Cab would cost. For existing customers it gave them a wine they could enjoy our wines while the longer aging wines of ours rested in their cellars. Off course the best part was getting a really good wine for $20.

Based on all that we decided to make the Haut Tubee part of our regular planning. Now we plan on making those one or two barrels from our small vineyards. We also now plan on evaluating each single vineyard wine in barrel and selecting candidates to declassify into the Haut Tubee. We may decided they are all ok to stay, or we may move one or more to the Haut Tubee.

We think that in 2008 and again in 2009 it made all of our wines better to take this approach. We’ve built it into our planning for 2010 and we’re even talking now about having a Haut Tubee Rose and a Haut Tubee White wine. So the Haut Tubee is here to stay and we’re very happy with how things have turned out.

The new replanted Haut Tubee in the Winter of 2008 before replanting with Mourvedre.

We exited harvest in 2007 with basically the same plan for the Haut Tubee we had in 2006. It was a single barrel of wine and we were not entirely sure what we would do with it. We had made that single barrel the same way we had done the 2006 and the way we continue to handle the small lots that come into the winery.

Each lot comes from a tiny vineyard with high quality fruit. We process the fruit as we would any of our larger lots, except it goes in a small fermentation bin and gets extra argon to protect it as fermentation slows. Each lot is pressed in the small wooden basket press and transferred to a stainless steel tank. When the tank has enough wine to fill a barrel, the wine is transferred to barrel.

By the summer of 2008 we knew we had a problem. Word had gotten out on the 2006 and we were expecting high demand for the 2007. The problem was we had just a single barrel or about 25 cases. There was no way 25 cases would meet demand.

It turned out we had a lot of things we didn’t know what to do with from the 2007 vintage. We had ended up with 3/4 of a barrel extra of Harvest Moon Cabernet. We also had a 1/2 barrel of Elandrich Vineyard Merlot/Cab. There was a single barrel of press wine from Chaine d’Or that we didn’t want to use in the final blend of the Estate wine. We also were conducting barrel experiments on our Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah. We had decided to use three new barrels out of the nine. We were trying a Sequin Moreau Burgundy Barrel, a Sequin Moreau Bordeaux Barrel and an Ermitage Syrah Barrel. We wanted to see what one matched the wine best. If any of them didn’t work out, we had still another barrel without a home.

Some point in that summer of 2008 a plan came together for all the extras. The press wine was broken up. Some went in to beef up the SCM Cab blend, a tiny bit went back into the estate wine, and some went in to the Haut Tubee. We then decided to blend together the Elandrich and Harvest Moon. This solved the problem of the 3/4 barrel, and the remaining amount went into the Haut Tubee.

Later we would add some of the Chaine d’Or into the SCM Cab and a little of that would also end up in the Haut Tubee. We now had two barrels of Haut Tubee instead of one. We were ready to go forward with that and make 50 cases of wine.

Then it came time to taste through the Eaglepoint Ranch Syrah. We had made that wine at Big Basin Vineyards and we had the assistant winemaker there pull us a sample from each barrel. Stefania and I tasted them blind. One really stood out. It was smokey and rich with pepper and dark fruit notes, almost brooding. It was a great Syrah, but it was totally different from all the other samples. It turned out that was the new Ermitage barrel.

The folks at Big Basin recommended we bottle that barrel separately but I really didn’t want to create a one time only wine. We decided to put it in the Haut Tubee instead. I think you could have argued that that barrel was the best of all nine, but it was also the most different. We also choose another barrel that stood out and that joined the Haut Tubee as well.

That was what we ended up with for 2007. Four barrels of really great wine, blended together and including about 35% new oak for $20. It really is a bargain, but the way we’re keeping the books on the wines, most of our costs are falling under other wines. We released that wine in 2009 and it took off again. The highlight was a Gold Medal at the Chronicle Wine Competition.

The 2007 Haut Tubee barrels after bottling.

Next Up – The Haut Tubee Gets a Plan